First, I’d like to make a film recommendation: go rent It’s Kind of a Funny Story. It’s the story of a teenager who inadvertently ends up in the psych ward due to the trials and pressures of adolescence. It’s funny and it’s got heart. (It’s also got Zach Galifianakis, or Alan from The Hangover.)
But in reality, the psych ward isn’t all that funny. I spent four weeks there during my psychiatry rotation, and it saddened me far more than I had expected.
Yes, there are crazy people there, to put it crassly. But these are the sickest of the sick, people who are suicidal, homicidal, psychotic, or are so impaired that they are unable to care for themselves. So they don’t get better quickly, if at all. It is kind of exciting to see a textbook case of schizophrenia for the first time, complete with voices, paranoia, and bizarre behavior. But when the person is still hearing voices coming from the heating vents two weeks later and drinking mouthwash to make themselves throw up the medication because they believe the doctors are trying to poison them, it’s just heart-wrenching.
An episode of mania in a person with bipolar disorder can be amusing, too, for the first few minutes; my team treated several, and some believed that they were being stalked by millions of people, and that these people were also stealing all of their belongings. The patients jumped from idea to idea with no connection between them, leaving me with whiplash after each interview. Yes, they said some hilarious things, always with a completely straight face. But when I heard some version of the same stories day after day, despite increasing doses of medication, it became clear that these were people who likely would be unable to function on their own in society for long periods of time. They had their physical health, but their minds were seriously impaired.
Overall, I enjoyed the four weeks. I disliked not touching my patients and it was a little bit strange to need keys to let myself through the double doors onto the ward, but the hours (roughly 8AM-4PM) and autonomy (leading the team’s daily interview with my patients, taking full responsibility for calling patient’s families for further information and writing detailed daily chart notes) were great. I even had fun studying. But I quickly realized that, while I found it fascinating to read about the various diseases and symptoms that can affect one’s mind and personality, I could only feel frustrated and sad when I interacted with people actually dealing with them. It seems that pediatrics is still the field for me.
Friday, May 27, 2011
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
On Idols and Not-So-Idle Thoughts (Part II)
Gynecologic Oncology – it was what I had dreamed of doing for ten years. I had spent a summer working in that field, and lost a loved one to ovarian cancer, so this wasn’t idle fantasy. The very reason I had chosen to do my ob/gyn rotation at this distant hospital was because it was home to one of the leaders in the field, and I desperately wanted to work with her.
I did get that chance, and it went well. Embarrassingly, we have nearly the same build and haircut, so on the day that I worked her office, multiple staff members noted, loudly and repeatedly, that we looked like twins. Just what this renowned surgeon wants to hear, I cringed, that she looks like a lowly med student. It was especially awkward for me because I had previously stated to family and friends that I wanted to be this woman, and here it looked like I was imitating her. Of course, she had no way of known about my prior reverence for her, so she probably didn’t view me as a creepy stalker. Another student told me later that she had actually spoken highly of me. (Yay!)
I did like gyn onc. But I still wasn’t sure I liked it enough to endure four years of the ob/gyn residency necessary to get there. So maybe, as Tay gently suggested, the important part for me was the oncology, not the ob/gyn. I had loved peds onc; in fact, I had often caught myself fantasizing about my career in the field, only to reprimand myself: You can’t do that, you’re going to be a gynecologic oncologist, remember? What’s more, I felt sure that I would enjoy the years of the general pediatrics residency that would precede an oncology fellowship. I loved the kids. I loved the parents - dealing with them, calming them, explaining things to them. I loved that the medicine incorporated all of the body systems, rather that just one as was the case with ob/gyn. And the more time I spent in gynecologic surgeries, the more I recognized that my favorite part took even before the anesthesia was administered: talking to the patient, explaining the procedure, answering questions.
On the surface, then, it might look like a simple decision. But I spent nearly the entire rotation torturing myself with endless ruminations and unanswerable questions. If I wasn’t going to be a gynecologic oncologist, then who was I? How well did I know myself? What else had I been wrong about? (And having been wrong, in and of itself, wasn’t my favorite thing.) My soul ached. I felt like I was failing. I felt like I was losing my identity. I felt like I was letting people down.
It took many long talks with family and close friends, as well as a good hard cry one night as I drove back home for the weekend. Through the rain I picked out the sign for the cemetery where one of my favorite people in the world, the one whose life was claimed far too early by ovarian cancer, is buried. Through my tears, I realized, finally, that choosing a different field and abandoning my personal vendetta against the disease that stole her away, would not be letting her down. She would probably even be proud of me for wanting to help kids with cancer… and for figuring out what I really want and going after it.
One other factor eased my decision. Last summer when I attended a medical writing workshop, I met a physician-writer whom I came to greatly admire. She had written a book chronicling her experiences in med school (sound familiar?), and it was one of the things I read at night to try to distract myself from my daily worries.
I enjoyed her stories and related to many of them. Then I came upon the chapter describing her decision of whether or not to go into Ob/Gyn. What, now? I knew that this woman was a pediatrician; had she once been less than sure about her path?
In a word, yes. I read faster and faster in disbelief as she gave words to the turmoil that raged inside me. She, too, had imagined a career helping women. She, too, liked parts of her ob/gyn rotation (truthfully, I think she liked more than I did). And yet, she, too, yearned to have a career with slightly more flexibility in order to allow her to develop her blossoming writing career. And she, too, agonized over the decision, lamenting the confusion she felt about her very identity and even admitting to questioning whether she wished to practice medicine at all.
Today, this woman is a successful pediatrician, wife, and mother, and she is also one hell of writer. And from the bit of time I spent with her, she’s an incredible person. And a happy one.
So I have a new career path and a new idol to go with it. I also feel a new sense of in-tune-ness with myself and what is important to me in life. I finished my ob/gyn rotation successfully and set up my fourth-year schedule with lots of electives in pediatrics. And I haven’t felt that knot in my stomach since.
I did get that chance, and it went well. Embarrassingly, we have nearly the same build and haircut, so on the day that I worked her office, multiple staff members noted, loudly and repeatedly, that we looked like twins. Just what this renowned surgeon wants to hear, I cringed, that she looks like a lowly med student. It was especially awkward for me because I had previously stated to family and friends that I wanted to be this woman, and here it looked like I was imitating her. Of course, she had no way of known about my prior reverence for her, so she probably didn’t view me as a creepy stalker. Another student told me later that she had actually spoken highly of me. (Yay!)
I did like gyn onc. But I still wasn’t sure I liked it enough to endure four years of the ob/gyn residency necessary to get there. So maybe, as Tay gently suggested, the important part for me was the oncology, not the ob/gyn. I had loved peds onc; in fact, I had often caught myself fantasizing about my career in the field, only to reprimand myself: You can’t do that, you’re going to be a gynecologic oncologist, remember? What’s more, I felt sure that I would enjoy the years of the general pediatrics residency that would precede an oncology fellowship. I loved the kids. I loved the parents - dealing with them, calming them, explaining things to them. I loved that the medicine incorporated all of the body systems, rather that just one as was the case with ob/gyn. And the more time I spent in gynecologic surgeries, the more I recognized that my favorite part took even before the anesthesia was administered: talking to the patient, explaining the procedure, answering questions.
On the surface, then, it might look like a simple decision. But I spent nearly the entire rotation torturing myself with endless ruminations and unanswerable questions. If I wasn’t going to be a gynecologic oncologist, then who was I? How well did I know myself? What else had I been wrong about? (And having been wrong, in and of itself, wasn’t my favorite thing.) My soul ached. I felt like I was failing. I felt like I was losing my identity. I felt like I was letting people down.
It took many long talks with family and close friends, as well as a good hard cry one night as I drove back home for the weekend. Through the rain I picked out the sign for the cemetery where one of my favorite people in the world, the one whose life was claimed far too early by ovarian cancer, is buried. Through my tears, I realized, finally, that choosing a different field and abandoning my personal vendetta against the disease that stole her away, would not be letting her down. She would probably even be proud of me for wanting to help kids with cancer… and for figuring out what I really want and going after it.
One other factor eased my decision. Last summer when I attended a medical writing workshop, I met a physician-writer whom I came to greatly admire. She had written a book chronicling her experiences in med school (sound familiar?), and it was one of the things I read at night to try to distract myself from my daily worries.
I enjoyed her stories and related to many of them. Then I came upon the chapter describing her decision of whether or not to go into Ob/Gyn. What, now? I knew that this woman was a pediatrician; had she once been less than sure about her path?
In a word, yes. I read faster and faster in disbelief as she gave words to the turmoil that raged inside me. She, too, had imagined a career helping women. She, too, liked parts of her ob/gyn rotation (truthfully, I think she liked more than I did). And yet, she, too, yearned to have a career with slightly more flexibility in order to allow her to develop her blossoming writing career. And she, too, agonized over the decision, lamenting the confusion she felt about her very identity and even admitting to questioning whether she wished to practice medicine at all.
Today, this woman is a successful pediatrician, wife, and mother, and she is also one hell of writer. And from the bit of time I spent with her, she’s an incredible person. And a happy one.
So I have a new career path and a new idol to go with it. I also feel a new sense of in-tune-ness with myself and what is important to me in life. I finished my ob/gyn rotation successfully and set up my fourth-year schedule with lots of electives in pediatrics. And I haven’t felt that knot in my stomach since.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
On Idols and Not-So-Idle Thoughts (Part I)
Obstetrics and gynecology was my carrot throughout the first few years of medical school. It dangled in front of me, the reward for those years of grinding, crushing study; for giving up so much of what I loved in life along the way. Third-year rotations in general served as a general type of carrot – after all, seeing patients had to be better than hours hunched over textbooks – but as the first few rotations proved less than inspiring, ob/gyn hung promising on the horizon. I had scheduled it for January and February; I would start out 2011 on the right foot.
But by the second week of the rotation, I could no longer remember how it felt to live without a knot in my stomach.
Tay asked again and again for clarification of just what I was feeling. From what he could see, I had loved pediatrics and was just having a hard time adjusting to ob/gyn, likely due to a combination of: 1) residents who seemed to hate their lives and barely notice the students like myself who frantically followed them everywhere, trying to make sense of roles that were never explained to us; 2) my general aversion to change that reared up predictably at the start of every rotation; and 3) the fact that I was living in the free student housing, an hour away from my home with him, in an apartment that I would have shunned even when I was fresh out of college and scrounging to find a place that my embarrassingly small paycheck could cover.
(The best part of that housing was the skinny mirror in my bedroom. That and the bright pink striped shower curtain that had cost $8.99 at Target. Another plus was that the hot water didn’t always emit a scree like the sound the smoke detector would have made had it not been dismantled and disemboweled of its battery; sometimes a full five minutes could be spent in blissfully quiet pre-sunrise steam.)
I had met so many people – residents, attendings – who reminisced bitterly, “I thought I wanted to do ob/gyn... until I did my rotation!” This sentiment had frustrated me, with its negativity and with these individuals’ apparently easy dissuade-ability. I wanted to prove them wrong, to prove that ob/gyn could be liked, could fulfill what one hoped it would, could be a path charted at the start of med school (or even before) and followed without deviation. I didn’t want to be just another of the stereotypical women who had been all about women’s health until they realized how demanding the hours were or how catty the residents and then went running to something like psychiatry... family Medicine... pediatrics. I had been sure that one day I would look down my nose at them and announce that I, in fact, loved ob/gyn and found it to be nothing like the stereotype. So there.
Except here I was, hating every minute of every day spent at the hospital, and using up every minute spent outside of the hospital dreading my return to the wards the next day. I stayed up later than I should, lamenting my unhappiness to Tay over the phone, reading a few chapters of a book for pleasure and then feeling guilty about the indulgence; half fighting through the din of the ugly, noisy town in search of sleep with the other half always keeping an eye on the alarm clock, terrified I would sleep through my 5:30 wake-up. As a result, I was exhausted and cranky in addition to being frustrated and confused.
What was so bad about it? The residents, for starters. The younger ones – the interns – were all very sweet, but personalities seemed to go downhill as one climbed the ranks. I spent idle moments trying to pinpoint at what stage in their training the kindness was beat out of them. Teaching was rare; the few questions they asked ranged from those requiring magical mind-reading abilities and ones so ridiculously simple they made you wonder what you were missing. I once scrubbed in on a C-section and received only two questions: What is this? (pointing to the uterus) and Very good, now what about this? (holding up the fallopian tube). They were the only words spoken to me throughout a procedure in what is supposed to be a teaching hospital.
The lack of organization, for another thing. The rotation was ostensibly well-organized, with each student spending one week on each of seven services: Gynecology, Labor & Delivery, Nights (which was basically more labor & delivery but with horrible hours and less action… in other words, an atrocious week), Urogynecology, Reproductive Endrocrinology & Infertility, Maternal-Fetal Medicine (high-risk obstetrics) and Gynecologic Oncology. The problem was that the organization ended there. No one had any clue about appropriate roles for students, so they didn’t really give us any; we chased the residents all day, with no warning about when we might be able to eat lunch or use the bathroom or when we had to attend a meeting in a building several streets away. Multiple times, I nearly followed residents into the bathroom because they hadn’t told me where they were going – hadn’t told me anything at all – so I judged it safer to follow along than risk losing them. At other times, the residents would be busy and decline my offers to do anything to help, so I would be left literally holding up the wall, torn between trying to look available eager to help out and trying to look busy, like I wasn’t just standing there counting the seconds.
And then there was the actual medicine of it. Truth be told, I just wasn’t feeling as excited as I’d anticipated. Yes, I got teary-eyed at each birth (especially if the dad cried – that really got me), but that didn’t make me want to do it all the time. And the surgeries were interesting the first time I saw them, but with each repetition my interest dwindled. Once upon a time, I had been excited by the uterus and its neighboring organs, by the infections that could plague them, the tumors that could grow, the changes that took place monthly and throughout the arc of a woman's lifespan. But now that I was faced with them each day, I wasn't all that thrilled. I missed the heart and the kidneys.
Of course, as everyone reminded me, I had planned to subspecialize in oncology, so maybe it was ok that I wasn’t so excited about the general stuff. They suggested I wait to see how I felt during my week on Gyn Onc. So I tried to control my freaking out until then.
But by the second week of the rotation, I could no longer remember how it felt to live without a knot in my stomach.
Tay asked again and again for clarification of just what I was feeling. From what he could see, I had loved pediatrics and was just having a hard time adjusting to ob/gyn, likely due to a combination of: 1) residents who seemed to hate their lives and barely notice the students like myself who frantically followed them everywhere, trying to make sense of roles that were never explained to us; 2) my general aversion to change that reared up predictably at the start of every rotation; and 3) the fact that I was living in the free student housing, an hour away from my home with him, in an apartment that I would have shunned even when I was fresh out of college and scrounging to find a place that my embarrassingly small paycheck could cover.
(The best part of that housing was the skinny mirror in my bedroom. That and the bright pink striped shower curtain that had cost $8.99 at Target. Another plus was that the hot water didn’t always emit a scree like the sound the smoke detector would have made had it not been dismantled and disemboweled of its battery; sometimes a full five minutes could be spent in blissfully quiet pre-sunrise steam.)
I had met so many people – residents, attendings – who reminisced bitterly, “I thought I wanted to do ob/gyn... until I did my rotation!” This sentiment had frustrated me, with its negativity and with these individuals’ apparently easy dissuade-ability. I wanted to prove them wrong, to prove that ob/gyn could be liked, could fulfill what one hoped it would, could be a path charted at the start of med school (or even before) and followed without deviation. I didn’t want to be just another of the stereotypical women who had been all about women’s health until they realized how demanding the hours were or how catty the residents and then went running to something like psychiatry... family Medicine... pediatrics. I had been sure that one day I would look down my nose at them and announce that I, in fact, loved ob/gyn and found it to be nothing like the stereotype. So there.
Except here I was, hating every minute of every day spent at the hospital, and using up every minute spent outside of the hospital dreading my return to the wards the next day. I stayed up later than I should, lamenting my unhappiness to Tay over the phone, reading a few chapters of a book for pleasure and then feeling guilty about the indulgence; half fighting through the din of the ugly, noisy town in search of sleep with the other half always keeping an eye on the alarm clock, terrified I would sleep through my 5:30 wake-up. As a result, I was exhausted and cranky in addition to being frustrated and confused.
What was so bad about it? The residents, for starters. The younger ones – the interns – were all very sweet, but personalities seemed to go downhill as one climbed the ranks. I spent idle moments trying to pinpoint at what stage in their training the kindness was beat out of them. Teaching was rare; the few questions they asked ranged from those requiring magical mind-reading abilities and ones so ridiculously simple they made you wonder what you were missing. I once scrubbed in on a C-section and received only two questions: What is this? (pointing to the uterus) and Very good, now what about this? (holding up the fallopian tube). They were the only words spoken to me throughout a procedure in what is supposed to be a teaching hospital.
The lack of organization, for another thing. The rotation was ostensibly well-organized, with each student spending one week on each of seven services: Gynecology, Labor & Delivery, Nights (which was basically more labor & delivery but with horrible hours and less action… in other words, an atrocious week), Urogynecology, Reproductive Endrocrinology & Infertility, Maternal-Fetal Medicine (high-risk obstetrics) and Gynecologic Oncology. The problem was that the organization ended there. No one had any clue about appropriate roles for students, so they didn’t really give us any; we chased the residents all day, with no warning about when we might be able to eat lunch or use the bathroom or when we had to attend a meeting in a building several streets away. Multiple times, I nearly followed residents into the bathroom because they hadn’t told me where they were going – hadn’t told me anything at all – so I judged it safer to follow along than risk losing them. At other times, the residents would be busy and decline my offers to do anything to help, so I would be left literally holding up the wall, torn between trying to look available eager to help out and trying to look busy, like I wasn’t just standing there counting the seconds.
And then there was the actual medicine of it. Truth be told, I just wasn’t feeling as excited as I’d anticipated. Yes, I got teary-eyed at each birth (especially if the dad cried – that really got me), but that didn’t make me want to do it all the time. And the surgeries were interesting the first time I saw them, but with each repetition my interest dwindled. Once upon a time, I had been excited by the uterus and its neighboring organs, by the infections that could plague them, the tumors that could grow, the changes that took place monthly and throughout the arc of a woman's lifespan. But now that I was faced with them each day, I wasn't all that thrilled. I missed the heart and the kidneys.
Of course, as everyone reminded me, I had planned to subspecialize in oncology, so maybe it was ok that I wasn’t so excited about the general stuff. They suggested I wait to see how I felt during my week on Gyn Onc. So I tried to control my freaking out until then.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Transition from Turkey
Well, we're home. We had a very smooth, nearly 11-hour, flight back to New York on Monday and after a few days we were able to kick the jetlag. Tay returned to work and I've had the past week off to finish some of the writing projects I've been working on during the past month of elective time (yes, even in Turkey) and to get organized for one final rotation of third year.
But before I jump ahead, though, I need to go back and play some serious catch-up. Prior to my Turkey posts, I hadn't posted any updates since the New Year. I recently spent some time writing those overdue posts, and I'll put them up over the next week or so.
For now, though, one evening of freedom remains before I start eight weeks of surgery. So forgive the short post; there is fun to be had. :)
But before I jump ahead, though, I need to go back and play some serious catch-up. Prior to my Turkey posts, I hadn't posted any updates since the New Year. I recently spent some time writing those overdue posts, and I'll put them up over the next week or so.
For now, though, one evening of freedom remains before I start eight weeks of surgery. So forgive the short post; there is fun to be had. :)
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Avrupa ve Asya
The past few days have been truly special. Having checked most of the must-see tourist attractions off our list, we’ve been leisurely exploring the city, revisiting favored areas and wandering through some new terrain.
On Friday, we took a ferry to the Princes’ Islands, visiting the largest, known as Büyükada, or Grand Island. There are no cars on the island, so we were temporarily free from the dangers of Istanbul traffic. The main attractions are little shops and restaurants and the amazing views. We toured the island in a horse-drawn carriage, which brought us up a hill from which there are sprawling views of the water, the coast, and even Istanbul an hour and a half away.
That evening, Tay’s cousins and their wives took us out to dinner in Taksim, one of the young and modern areas of the city. We went to a restaurant that serves small pieces of meat on skewers; you wrap a very thin, crèpe-like pieces of bread around them with one hand and use the other hand to pull out the skewer. Then you add toppings from a variety of options on the table, such as greens, diced tomatoes with pomegranate juice, an onions, fold it up, and eat it. Afterwards we went back to one couple’s apartment for wine, çay, fruit, and nuts. Unfortunately, my cold had progressed, and it’s hard to keep with five people speaking Turkish, only a few of whom are able to translate for me, so I was completely wiped out by the time we got home… after 3am.
Obviously no alarm was set for the following morning, and we spent the afternoon strolling around and checking out some stores in the old part of the city, near the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. We found a store completely dedicated to Tay’s favorite soccer – sorry, football, as everyone here reminds me – team, so he is coming home with a very sharp-looking jersey. We enjoyed lunch at an outdoor café, and the food must have fueled my brain, because when I greeted a salesperson in the next store we visited, he asked if I was Turkish! I had to admit that I am not, but I was able to explain (in Turkish) that my husband is. This put a big proud smile on my face. :)
Outside, we heard music and stumbled upon a concert by a traditional military band for the national holiday celebrating some aspect of the formation of the Turkish Republic.
Then we continued our meandering, stopping to purchase fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice by the side of the road and some much-needed decongestant at a pharmacy, and eventually met up with Tay’s friend from college who lives here. He has season tickets to one of Istanbul’s main soccer (I mean football) teams, Galatasaray, and had offered to bring us to a game. We had been disappointed that Tay’s team, Beşiktaş, had games scheduled for one day before our arrival and after our departure, but he likes this team as well, and it would be a fun opportunity for me to experience a European football match.
I had a great time – when I told Tay how much fun I was having, his eyes lit up like he’d won the lottery :) - mostly because the fans are hilarious. They come all decked out with their team’s jerseys, jackets, and scarves. I never understood what the scarves were for, but they swing them around over their heads. Right from the start, entire sections were cheering and chanting together, jumping up and down in sync. The funniest part, though, was that with every call against their team, the fans all made the exact same hand motion (arm sticking straight out at about 45 degrees from the front of the body, with the hand out like Hey, come on!) and shouted the same things (not that I knew what they were saying). It’s exactly what I see Tay do whenever he watches a game on TV; now I know that he’s not crazy, he’s just a typical Turkish fan.
Today we did some last strolling and shopping, then took a ferry across the Bosphorous to Asya (Asia, as you probably guessed). Many Turks live on the Asian side and commute to Avrupa to work. The ferry only took about 15 minutes, and two bridges also connect the two parts of the city. There, we met Sumru, a friend of Tay’s from our Boston days; she’s an ophthalmologist who did a uveitis fellowship at the practice where he worked. She and her husband are incredibly sweet people, and took us to a fish restaurant right on the water. I tried a number of different foods (some of which I might not have tried had they told me what it was first, such as sheep’s liver) and different ways of eating them (one small fish can be eaten whole, except for the tail; you can swallow the bones). Another type of fish – shield fish, which was my favorite – is only caught during a certain season, and Turkish fishermen apparently cross into Russian waters to catch it. If they are found doing this, they can be jailed for 6 months, yet they still go back and do it again the next year because the fish is so good. Being the incredibly thoughtful person that she is, Sumru had bought us the special kind of tea kettle needed to brew the Turkish çay that I love, as well as another set of tea cups and spoons, so now we are coming home with everything we need – plus extras – to make çay. I hope you are all ready to try some the next time you come over!
You can imagine the challenge posed by packing up all of our goodies in preparation for tomorrow’s flight. We wish we could stay longer; I feel very acclimated to the city and am able to learn bits of the language pretty quickly and Tay feels a great sense of belonging with the people here. (The other day, he had to leave a message for his cousin, and when he gave his name, the person taking the message just wrote it down, spelled correctly, with no quizzical look or questions asked. How often do you think that happens to him at home?) Tomorrow we will say goodbye to Istanbul, but only for now. I’ll leave you with one more shot of the unmistakable skyline:
On Friday, we took a ferry to the Princes’ Islands, visiting the largest, known as Büyükada, or Grand Island. There are no cars on the island, so we were temporarily free from the dangers of Istanbul traffic. The main attractions are little shops and restaurants and the amazing views. We toured the island in a horse-drawn carriage, which brought us up a hill from which there are sprawling views of the water, the coast, and even Istanbul an hour and a half away.
That evening, Tay’s cousins and their wives took us out to dinner in Taksim, one of the young and modern areas of the city. We went to a restaurant that serves small pieces of meat on skewers; you wrap a very thin, crèpe-like pieces of bread around them with one hand and use the other hand to pull out the skewer. Then you add toppings from a variety of options on the table, such as greens, diced tomatoes with pomegranate juice, an onions, fold it up, and eat it. Afterwards we went back to one couple’s apartment for wine, çay, fruit, and nuts. Unfortunately, my cold had progressed, and it’s hard to keep with five people speaking Turkish, only a few of whom are able to translate for me, so I was completely wiped out by the time we got home… after 3am.
Obviously no alarm was set for the following morning, and we spent the afternoon strolling around and checking out some stores in the old part of the city, near the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. We found a store completely dedicated to Tay’s favorite soccer – sorry, football, as everyone here reminds me – team, so he is coming home with a very sharp-looking jersey. We enjoyed lunch at an outdoor café, and the food must have fueled my brain, because when I greeted a salesperson in the next store we visited, he asked if I was Turkish! I had to admit that I am not, but I was able to explain (in Turkish) that my husband is. This put a big proud smile on my face. :)
Outside, we heard music and stumbled upon a concert by a traditional military band for the national holiday celebrating some aspect of the formation of the Turkish Republic.
Then we continued our meandering, stopping to purchase fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice by the side of the road and some much-needed decongestant at a pharmacy, and eventually met up with Tay’s friend from college who lives here. He has season tickets to one of Istanbul’s main soccer (I mean football) teams, Galatasaray, and had offered to bring us to a game. We had been disappointed that Tay’s team, Beşiktaş, had games scheduled for one day before our arrival and after our departure, but he likes this team as well, and it would be a fun opportunity for me to experience a European football match.
I had a great time – when I told Tay how much fun I was having, his eyes lit up like he’d won the lottery :) - mostly because the fans are hilarious. They come all decked out with their team’s jerseys, jackets, and scarves. I never understood what the scarves were for, but they swing them around over their heads. Right from the start, entire sections were cheering and chanting together, jumping up and down in sync. The funniest part, though, was that with every call against their team, the fans all made the exact same hand motion (arm sticking straight out at about 45 degrees from the front of the body, with the hand out like Hey, come on!) and shouted the same things (not that I knew what they were saying). It’s exactly what I see Tay do whenever he watches a game on TV; now I know that he’s not crazy, he’s just a typical Turkish fan.
Today we did some last strolling and shopping, then took a ferry across the Bosphorous to Asya (Asia, as you probably guessed). Many Turks live on the Asian side and commute to Avrupa to work. The ferry only took about 15 minutes, and two bridges also connect the two parts of the city. There, we met Sumru, a friend of Tay’s from our Boston days; she’s an ophthalmologist who did a uveitis fellowship at the practice where he worked. She and her husband are incredibly sweet people, and took us to a fish restaurant right on the water. I tried a number of different foods (some of which I might not have tried had they told me what it was first, such as sheep’s liver) and different ways of eating them (one small fish can be eaten whole, except for the tail; you can swallow the bones). Another type of fish – shield fish, which was my favorite – is only caught during a certain season, and Turkish fishermen apparently cross into Russian waters to catch it. If they are found doing this, they can be jailed for 6 months, yet they still go back and do it again the next year because the fish is so good. Being the incredibly thoughtful person that she is, Sumru had bought us the special kind of tea kettle needed to brew the Turkish çay that I love, as well as another set of tea cups and spoons, so now we are coming home with everything we need – plus extras – to make çay. I hope you are all ready to try some the next time you come over!
You can imagine the challenge posed by packing up all of our goodies in preparation for tomorrow’s flight. We wish we could stay longer; I feel very acclimated to the city and am able to learn bits of the language pretty quickly and Tay feels a great sense of belonging with the people here. (The other day, he had to leave a message for his cousin, and when he gave his name, the person taking the message just wrote it down, spelled correctly, with no quizzical look or questions asked. How often do you think that happens to him at home?) Tomorrow we will say goodbye to Istanbul, but only for now. I’ll leave you with one more shot of the unmistakable skyline:
Friday, April 22, 2011
Güzel Bir Gün!
A beautiful day!
Today’s weather was exactly what we have longed for – fantastic sunshine! We headed up to a different part of the city, Ortaköy, where we met up with another of Tay’s cousins for lunch. We had a local specialty, kumpir, which is a baked potato topped with butter, cheese, and anything else you want. (Choices include olives, corn, carrots, mushrooms, pickled red cabbage, chopped hot dog, ketchup, and mayonnaise.) Then we enjoyed the requisite post-meal çay at a café right on the water.
Istanbul straddles Europe and Asia, with the Bosphorous Strait dividing the two continents and connecting the Sea of Marmara to the south with the Black Sea to the north. (We are staying on the European side, where most of the sites are; sometime in the remaining few days, we hope to go over to Asia!) After wandering the cute, cobblestoned, shop-lined streets for a bit (and possibly buying some books and a pair of earrings…) we took a sight-seeing cruise on the Bosphorous. The views were really spectacular, and it was a perfect day to be on the water. The shot below shows the mosque right on the water (on the European side) and one of the bridges spanning the Bosphorous.
Next we strolled for quite awhile and returned to the tram, taking it to an area called Nişantesı, which boasts some of the city’s higher-end shopping. Also on the European side of Istanbul, it is separated from the section where we are staying by a bay known as the Golden Horn. We spent a few hours browsing, still enjoying beautiful sunshine, and finding a really pretty long flowered dress. :)
For dinner, we headed back across the Golden Horn and, along a different stretch of water, got some delicious fish sandwiches. Men dressed in black uniforms with gold decorations cook the sandwiches on these ornate little boats that bob right at the dock and then pass them up to you when you order. They only make one simple kind, so all you have to do is tell them how many you want and then go grab drinks from a freezer. For dessert, we grabbed a few of a pastry that I hadn’t yet had, which I call baklava balls; sort of like baklava but spherical and lighter. I guess today’s themes were sunshine and special Turkish treats, as we grabbed little cones of maraş dondurması, a type of ice cream that’s kind of sticky, on the way back to the hotel.
So what happened yesterday? Well, it rained. But we still saw some pretty amazing sites, starting with the Hagia Sophia. Originally a church, it was converted to a mosque during the time of the Ottoman Empire, and then became a museum after the Ottoman Empire became Turkey. Because of this, there is the interesting juxtaposition of a mosaic of Christ and Madonna flanked by two large medallions with words written in Arabic. The whole thing was literally breathtaking. See for yourself:
Then we checked out Topkapı Palace, former home of the sultans. It’s absolutely huge, but we visited the Harem (where apparently the concubines were supervised by eunuchs), a display of the sultans’ clothing, and the treasury, which contains dozens of amazingly ornate goodies, including the famous Topkapı Dagger (set with 3 enormous emeralds in its hilt) and all 86 carats the Spoonmaker’s Diamond (so called because it was originally found in a garbage dump and sold for 3 spoons).
After making our way back to the hotel, we met up with one of Tay’s friends, whom he met it college, but who is Turkish and was raised and still lives here in Istanbul. He drove us to yet another part of the city that we had not seen: Bebek. It was truly amazing! Just when I thought that I had gotten the picture that Istanbul has a number of modern sections, the areas he showed us blew my mind! They were so chic and upscale, with gorgeous views of the Bosphorous. This city is truly a marvel.
Tomorrow our plan is to take a ferry to the nearby Princes’ Islands and then to go out with both of Tay’s cousins and their wives (2 of whom speak English; yay!) My goal is that, the next time we come back, I will be able to chat with them in Turkish. I’ll keep you posted, both on tomorrow’s adventures and progress with Türkçe.
Today’s weather was exactly what we have longed for – fantastic sunshine! We headed up to a different part of the city, Ortaköy, where we met up with another of Tay’s cousins for lunch. We had a local specialty, kumpir, which is a baked potato topped with butter, cheese, and anything else you want. (Choices include olives, corn, carrots, mushrooms, pickled red cabbage, chopped hot dog, ketchup, and mayonnaise.) Then we enjoyed the requisite post-meal çay at a café right on the water.
Istanbul straddles Europe and Asia, with the Bosphorous Strait dividing the two continents and connecting the Sea of Marmara to the south with the Black Sea to the north. (We are staying on the European side, where most of the sites are; sometime in the remaining few days, we hope to go over to Asia!) After wandering the cute, cobblestoned, shop-lined streets for a bit (and possibly buying some books and a pair of earrings…) we took a sight-seeing cruise on the Bosphorous. The views were really spectacular, and it was a perfect day to be on the water. The shot below shows the mosque right on the water (on the European side) and one of the bridges spanning the Bosphorous.
Next we strolled for quite awhile and returned to the tram, taking it to an area called Nişantesı, which boasts some of the city’s higher-end shopping. Also on the European side of Istanbul, it is separated from the section where we are staying by a bay known as the Golden Horn. We spent a few hours browsing, still enjoying beautiful sunshine, and finding a really pretty long flowered dress. :)
For dinner, we headed back across the Golden Horn and, along a different stretch of water, got some delicious fish sandwiches. Men dressed in black uniforms with gold decorations cook the sandwiches on these ornate little boats that bob right at the dock and then pass them up to you when you order. They only make one simple kind, so all you have to do is tell them how many you want and then go grab drinks from a freezer. For dessert, we grabbed a few of a pastry that I hadn’t yet had, which I call baklava balls; sort of like baklava but spherical and lighter. I guess today’s themes were sunshine and special Turkish treats, as we grabbed little cones of maraş dondurması, a type of ice cream that’s kind of sticky, on the way back to the hotel.
So what happened yesterday? Well, it rained. But we still saw some pretty amazing sites, starting with the Hagia Sophia. Originally a church, it was converted to a mosque during the time of the Ottoman Empire, and then became a museum after the Ottoman Empire became Turkey. Because of this, there is the interesting juxtaposition of a mosaic of Christ and Madonna flanked by two large medallions with words written in Arabic. The whole thing was literally breathtaking. See for yourself:
Then we checked out Topkapı Palace, former home of the sultans. It’s absolutely huge, but we visited the Harem (where apparently the concubines were supervised by eunuchs), a display of the sultans’ clothing, and the treasury, which contains dozens of amazingly ornate goodies, including the famous Topkapı Dagger (set with 3 enormous emeralds in its hilt) and all 86 carats the Spoonmaker’s Diamond (so called because it was originally found in a garbage dump and sold for 3 spoons).
After making our way back to the hotel, we met up with one of Tay’s friends, whom he met it college, but who is Turkish and was raised and still lives here in Istanbul. He drove us to yet another part of the city that we had not seen: Bebek. It was truly amazing! Just when I thought that I had gotten the picture that Istanbul has a number of modern sections, the areas he showed us blew my mind! They were so chic and upscale, with gorgeous views of the Bosphorous. This city is truly a marvel.
Tomorrow our plan is to take a ferry to the nearby Princes’ Islands and then to go out with both of Tay’s cousins and their wives (2 of whom speak English; yay!) My goal is that, the next time we come back, I will be able to chat with them in Turkish. I’ll keep you posted, both on tomorrow’s adventures and progress with Türkçe.
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Alış Veriş Istanbul’da
The theme of the day was shopping! After sleeping until a slightly more normal time of 6:45, we enjoyed breakfast and then headed out on the tram again, intending to see the Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace... but the first had a huge line and the second is closed on Tuesdays. So we improvised, spending several hours in the Istanbul Archeology Museum, which has an impressive array of artifacts, including some enormous sarcophagi decorated with ridiculously detailed carvings.
From there, we wandered back to the area of the spice market, but stayed on the surrounding streets, where things are cheaper. We bought some apple tea since we had enjoyed it so much when one shopkeeper shared some with us yesterday. Walking by the water, Tay got us each a simit, or a circle of sesame seed bread. (Yes, it’s pretty much a sesame seed bagel, just proportioned differently.) We wandered through mazes of cobblestoned side streets lined with shops, taking advantage of the fact that the weather forecast was wrong and we actually had no rain today. We found our way to the book bazaar, which is one of my favorite experiences so far. As soon as you climb a few steps onto this street, the world is suddenly quieter, and the bazaar has a cozier feel, shaded beneath trees and the side of a mosque.
We made a few purchases – when can Tay and I ever pass up books? – and, on a whim, decided to enter the mosque. We were met with fantastic mosaics of bright red and blue; it was our favorite mosque thus far, even over the famed Blue Mosque. Just beyond this was the impressive entrance to Istanbul University.
Taking advantage of the surprisingly dry day, we decided to head up to Taksim Square, on the other side of the city, where Tay’s cousin and his wife had taken us for dinner on our first night. They had showed us around a bit, but we wanted to explore for ourselves. We walked partway, stopping to purchase a set of Turkish tea cups so we can preserve our daily ritual of sipping delicious tea from the special glasses once we are back home. Due to tired feet and no nearby tram stop, we took a cab the rest of the way and were greeted by an impressive statue depicting Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, leading the military and then emerging as a statesman.
Prior to our trip, I had read and heard that Istanbul is a city that embraces both the old and the new. Though I had been warned, the stark contrasts between Taksim and the parts of Istanbul we had previously seen shocked me. This section is incredibly modern, with trendy clothing stores and Westernized restaurants. The architecture is more similar to that seen in other European cities; in fact, we could easily have been exploring Paris or London. The people who frequent this area are, in general, younger and less conservative; brightly-dyed hair, piercings, and trendy styles of dress abounded.
We finished the day browsing the main thoroughfare and a number of smaller offshoots (and, yes, made more purchases… you know, to support the economy) and enjoyed a delicious dinner before taking the tram home. Tomorrow we will attempt to see the Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace, but with all the things to see here, we never quite know where each day will lead us.
From there, we wandered back to the area of the spice market, but stayed on the surrounding streets, where things are cheaper. We bought some apple tea since we had enjoyed it so much when one shopkeeper shared some with us yesterday. Walking by the water, Tay got us each a simit, or a circle of sesame seed bread. (Yes, it’s pretty much a sesame seed bagel, just proportioned differently.) We wandered through mazes of cobblestoned side streets lined with shops, taking advantage of the fact that the weather forecast was wrong and we actually had no rain today. We found our way to the book bazaar, which is one of my favorite experiences so far. As soon as you climb a few steps onto this street, the world is suddenly quieter, and the bazaar has a cozier feel, shaded beneath trees and the side of a mosque.
We made a few purchases – when can Tay and I ever pass up books? – and, on a whim, decided to enter the mosque. We were met with fantastic mosaics of bright red and blue; it was our favorite mosque thus far, even over the famed Blue Mosque. Just beyond this was the impressive entrance to Istanbul University.
Taking advantage of the surprisingly dry day, we decided to head up to Taksim Square, on the other side of the city, where Tay’s cousin and his wife had taken us for dinner on our first night. They had showed us around a bit, but we wanted to explore for ourselves. We walked partway, stopping to purchase a set of Turkish tea cups so we can preserve our daily ritual of sipping delicious tea from the special glasses once we are back home. Due to tired feet and no nearby tram stop, we took a cab the rest of the way and were greeted by an impressive statue depicting Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, leading the military and then emerging as a statesman.
Prior to our trip, I had read and heard that Istanbul is a city that embraces both the old and the new. Though I had been warned, the stark contrasts between Taksim and the parts of Istanbul we had previously seen shocked me. This section is incredibly modern, with trendy clothing stores and Westernized restaurants. The architecture is more similar to that seen in other European cities; in fact, we could easily have been exploring Paris or London. The people who frequent this area are, in general, younger and less conservative; brightly-dyed hair, piercings, and trendy styles of dress abounded.
We finished the day browsing the main thoroughfare and a number of smaller offshoots (and, yes, made more purchases… you know, to support the economy) and enjoyed a delicious dinner before taking the tram home. Tomorrow we will attempt to see the Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace, but with all the things to see here, we never quite know where each day will lead us.
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